The train ride from Venice to Florence did not take long (about 2 hrs). As I prepared to leave Venice, I had the same feeling when I prepared to leave Zurich–I wasn’t sure I wanted to leave and wished I had more time to learn the city. That said, I also had the same feeling upon entering Florence as I did the previous two cities: wow.
As I read Colin Well’s, Sailing From Byzantium, I enter Florence, one of the culminating points for the subtitle of Well’s book, “How a Lost Empire Shaped the World.” The relationship of Venice to Constantinople (its traffic of goods, material and ideas, particularly classics by Plato and Aristotle and the scholars who could read Greek) impacted Florence since many of those things, ideas and people ended up here. And you know the rest of that story–the Renaissance was born here. The intersection that is Florence is comprised of roads that run to Venice, Constantinope, the Silk Road East and of course, the Islamic influences that began to surge through the world after the seventh century.
Since I arrived in the afternoon, I have visited the Duomo, eaten lasagna (well!), walked the lasagna off, unpacked and then visited the Museum di Palazzo Veccho, the hub of Florentine politics, economics and commerce and the palace where the Medicis lived. I toured that at 8pm until 10pm. This museum is open until midnight! what a fantastic idea. I plan to visit the church Santa Croce on Tuesday, the Basilica of San Lorenzon on Weds, take time to write, read and digest and then on Thursday afternoon I head to the Eternal City, Rome. As they say in Latin, Pax Christi ~the Peace of Christ.
Not exactly what Julius Caesar said upon his triumphant entry into Rome, but arrived in Venice not as a conqueror but a weary traveller who had awakened in Zurich at 5 a.m. To catch my train (which switched in Milan). I won’t bore you with the details of nearly missing that connection and then the slow and sometimes lumbering journey to Venice. I arrived an hour late but because I am on Sabbatical, I had no engagement other than to check into my room.
Venice is beautiful and a little smelly in May (cannot imagine what August must be like). Yesterday (Friday), I spent the morning at St Mark’s,marveling at the rich mosaics and Byzantine achitecture and then sitting atop the front ledge some six or so stories high, looking out at the piazza and reading for an hour Roger Crowley’s terrific history of Venice, City Of Fortune. That evening I took a vaporratto (a boat bus) to the Jewish ghetto. Venice was the first European city to create a ghetto where they made Jews live and locked them in at night! There was a Holocaust memorial outside in the square and as Shabbat descended, I stood near one of the two synagogues hoping to hear evening prayers. I am grateful to be able to visit in this ancient city where history slashes and swirls like the tides of water breaking into canals of lived existences.
I landed safely in Zurich Saturday morning (Zurich time). As I write, it is Tuesday evening and I have had a restful yet engaging few days of one of Europe’s most charming cities. A glacial lake, a lucid river, parks and cafes… it is easy to get used to Zurich. I didn’t come here however to vacation but to deepen my knowledge of and about the reformation city led by the great Swiss Reformer, Ulrich Zwingli. I worshipped in his church, Grossmunster on Sunday (having toured it the previous day) and then the next day spent hours at Fraumunster, a church that had been founded as a Benedictine convent but was transformed into a Reform church under Zwingli’s direction. Inside Fraumunster, I was met by luminous stained glass windows created by Marc Chagall. I took a pew far in the back and meditated on these windows, my context within this historic church and city, read Paul Tillich’s The Courage To Be to completion and prayed and thanked God for my father, recently deceased. It is one thing to read about these events, another to tread over the sacred ground of men and women who exhibited such courage in the face of tyranny and great odds.
I arrived Saturday morning to see the beautiful cherry trees arrayed in a multitude of pink blossoms against a blue sky. These trees are along the eastern border of the church. Last Sunday the Japanese Cherry Tree out front that Emma Wright donated a few years ago to our church was in full blossom, along with its cousins all along the Tidal Basin. The world is beautiful.
Easter is a week away. Tomorrow we begin Holy Week by marking Palm Sunday and then on Thursday is our Maundy Thursday service at 7pm. This is a holy, solemn week in which we ponder not so much the beauty of the world as the harsh truth of the inhumanity of humankind. Please be sure to join us. The services will prepare you for Easter when we baptize three people and celebrate the holiest day in the Christian calendar.